Engine
Turbochargers
Factory and aftermarket, rebuildable cores included where the shaft play is honest.
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What we source
We hold no stock. This is what we go and find — at auction, through dismantlers, and from the retailers we buy from in Japan. Pick the closest thing to what you need and the request form will arrive pre-filled.
Engine
Intercoolers and piping
Front-mount and side-mount, factory and aftermarket.
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Inlet manifolds and throttle bodies
Port shape changes between engine variants more often than people expect.
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Engine assemblies and short blocks
Compression tested before purchase where the seller allows it.
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Coil packs, igniters and looms
The loom connectors fail before the coils do on most of these cars.
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Fuel pumps, injectors and rails
Injector sizes vary by grade even within one chassis code.
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Radiators, oil coolers and fans
Original plastic end tanks are usually the failure point on a used radiator.
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ECUs and engine management
Chassis-and-engine specific. We check the part number before quoting.
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Gearboxes
Bench-checked through every gear before purchase where possible.
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Differentials and LSDs
Ratio and backlash recorded before we buy.
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Clutches and flywheels
Single, twin and triple plate, factory and aftermarket.
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Driveshafts and axles
Boots and joint play checked; lengths differ between grades.
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Transfer cases
For the all-wheel-drive chassis, where these are increasingly hard to find.
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Coilovers and dampers
We will tell you when a used set needs a rebuild that costs more than the part.
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Control arms and knuckles
Checked straight, with ball-joint play recorded.
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Sway bars and links
Factory and aftermarket, in the thicknesses that suit each chassis.
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Strut braces and bracing
Including the factory bracing fitted only to higher grades.
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Subframes and crossmembers
Rust is the thing to check, and we photograph the seams.
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Callipers
Factory big-brake setups from the higher grades, and aftermarket kits.
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Rotors and hats
Thickness measured against the factory minimum before we buy.
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Master cylinders and boosters
Bore sizes differ by grade and affect pedal feel.
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Lines, ABS units and sensors
ABS units are often the part holding up a build.
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Guards, bonnets and doors
Photographed in daylight, with any filler or repair called out.
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Bumpers and aero
Mounting tabs are the thing that breaks; we check every one.
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Wings and spoilers
Including the factory wings that only came on certain grades.
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Glass and weather seals
Freight on glass is high and breakage risk is real. We will say when it is not worth it.
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Exterior trim and badges
Grade badges, mouldings and the small parts that finish a car.
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Seats and rails
The rail is as chassis-specific as the seat. We quote both together.
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Instrument clusters
Odometer reading is the donor reading and is never reset.
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Steering wheels and bosses
Airbag wheels and aftermarket, with the correct boss for the chassis.
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Dash, door cards and trim
Sun damage and cracking are described plainly rather than photographed around.
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Switchgear and climate controls
Tested working before purchase where there is power to test with.
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Headlights
Lens condition, internal moisture and every mounting tab checked.
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Tail lights
Crazing is age, not damage, and we say which one it is.
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Indicators and repeaters
Including the market-specific lenses that differ from Australian delivery cars.
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Ballasts, brackets and looms
The parts that go missing when a car is stripped by someone else.
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Factory wheels
The correct original wheel for the grade, in the correct offset.
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Aftermarket wheels
Forging stamps, date codes and weights checked against the genuine article.
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Nuts, spacers and centre caps
The small parts that are missing from most second-hand sets.
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Not seeing it is not a problem. This is the list we are asked for
most often, not the limit of what we can find. If it came on a Japanese-market car,
tell us and we will go looking.